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Many reasons exist reasons why you like a gun owner should think about purchasing a gun safe. The first is to prevent children who happen to be too young to know gun safety from accessing your firearms...and even when your children are well-educated and responsible, consider that their friends may not be. Furthermore, it's essential to protect your valuable guns from fire damage. Finally, there's the situation of burglary. The frontline defense against theft is for customers to not find out about your guns whatsoever. However, if you've been seen with a large number of guns on the range or maybe your company name is associated with a collection via a consignment sale at the local gun store, the initial collection of defense-anonymity-may are actually compromised.

In accordance with skilled professionals who contributed to this informative article, the best risk on the firearms owner is fire, followed secondly with the threat of the opportunistic thief. From Doug Tarter of Ft. Knox Safes, "The typical thief rarely targets a firearms vault furnished with an acetylene torch or drill. It really is more likely that they will find the safe after breaking-into your residence and utilize your tools to acquire access, like the sledge hammer in the garage leaning versus the safe."

Top 10 best gun safes

Size Or Capacity

Never buy to satisfy your own stash of firearms. When you own firearms like I do, then you certainly are certainly gonna expand in your stash. Always get something bigger than your requirement. This enables you to increase the ammo, guns and the likes without needing to remove jewelry, albums, money or documents to create space. It isn’t uncommon to get safes today offering additional space such as side hangers, pouches and variable rack size.

Additionally with sidearm safes, the lesser the better because it helps with concealing them.

Safe Construction and Wall Thickness

Recommendation: Minimum 10 Gauge steel walls, 5/16" solid plate door or 1 " composite door, armor shielding over lock box.

Shell Strength

Strength is very important in the safe. This is a purpose of components, design, and construction quality. You need a safe with great exterior strength, because in a fire, your house roof or other structural elements may fall around the safe. In the event the safe splits a weld or if perhaps the entranceway springs lose, your valuables are toast.

Well-constructed safes are designed with continuous welds, not "stitch welds" connected with body filler.

Wall Thickness

Steel is incredibly expensive. That's why low-end safes have very thin steel wall panels, 12-gauge or even 14 gauge. Thin steel is not going to offer a great deal of an obstacle to penetration. A concrete saw will zip through 10-gauge panels, and 12-gauge, single-panel steel might be penetrated by a Fire Ax. Commercial-grade safes, found in banks and jewelry stores, use much thicker-grade steel.

Nevertheless the average attack on the residential gun safe is a lot of "snatch and grab" variety, by criminals who don't have heavy-duty cutting tools or torches, and that want to get out and in fast. So, it's reasonable to compromise somewhat on the exterior shielding of your safe to have a manageable weight and reasonable price. Still, we recommend 10 gauge steel as a minimum, and 8 gauge, or 3/16", is quite a bit preferable. You need to compare that towards the wall thickness on other brands. Thicker steel is definitely harder to slice, and a lot more resistant to break-ins.


Whilst not the main of considerations first of all, Locks definitely play a major role in the end. They impact how fast you have access to your guns, whether it be child safe, if it may be opened with power loss and also the life of your safe. Basically, you might have two kinds of locks namely, electronic and mechanical. Electronic contain circuits, keypads, biometric scanners plus more while mechanical comes by means of key lock, combination lock and dual locks.

Electronic locks draw power coming from a battery source, which needs to be regularly replaced. These are fast and efficient but often last less than half ten years. On the other hand, mechanical locks are bulky, hard to handle, open slowly and desire zero replacement or maintenance. Good mechanical locks can last an eternity.


The much more likely threat for your firearm collection is really a house fire. Even when you will take excellent care of your home, a neighbor's fire or perhaps a nearby lightning strike can send burning embers to your roof. And unless there is a special insurance rider, the loss might be expensive, to state nothing of irreplaceable heirloom pieces. Consequently, the lining becomes probably the most important practical considerations when looking for a vault. Look for the thickness and kind of insulation, the existence of gaps inside the lining, and just how the lining is linked to the safe walls.

A typical house fire lasts about one hour-often only minutes, sadly. The hottest room is commonly the master closet; the coolest is truly the garage or basement upon an exterior wall. A property fire burns at about 1200oF and safes are usually rated to preserve an inside temperature of at most 350oF for X quantity of minutes. Paper chars at about 420oF and typical polymer guns begin to melt at 480oF. The usage of fire insulation like gypsum is a big improvement in gun safes. When heated, the steam emitted from gypsum helps cool internal temperatures in a fire and creates overpressure that keeps outside temperatures at bay. When evaluating fire endurance, don't neglect the simple criteria of a safe's weight. In case you have two safes of equal dimensions but varying weight, the heavier safe is likely using more layers and thicker steel panels to higher insulate your firearms in the burning inferno outside.

Fire ratings are problematic with this industry, leaving it up towards the consumer to dig for details. Some standards for example Underwriters Laboratory (UL) are meant for commercial structures rather than a home fire. This deficiency of a standard metric leaves room for well-intended manufacturers to create their very own tests, rendering it difficult for consumers to make an apples-to-apples comparison. Comments Mike Baker of Cannon Safes: "It is a huge ‘buyer-beware.' Despite having the existence of a UL Security Label, most of the gun safe manufacturers usually do not follow such testing standards with regards to fire, should they test at all. A couple of come up with confusing comparisons to help you become forget they may have not been tested. A really few companies actually test at the third-party laboratory that scientifically studies behaviors of home fires and helps to create standards for testing."

Confirming what the experts told us, our look for a Nationally Recognized Testing Laboratory for gun safe fire protection standards left us empty-handed. As being an aside, a UL Security rating may be what's required for a discount on your own insurance costs, but it has nothing concerning fire protection. Check with your underwriter, along with your tax preparer. Like a security item, the safe might be an allowed write-off on your taxes.

DOs and DON'Ts of Safe Buying

DO purchase a safe which is larger than you think you require.

Your gun collection will definitely grow with time. An excellent safe is more than simply a gun locker - it will become a good storage device for your personal family's other valuables as well. You'll find you quickly fill a good large safe. Spend the money for that size, protection, boasting you need. Your gun collection might be worth many hundreds and hundreds of dollars so it seems sensible to invest in the protection of your valuables.

DO spend more for a safe that offers fire-resistance.

But you must do your homework - you can spend a lot of cash for "fire-proofing" which actually is just not extremely effective. Make certain if sheet-rock is commonly used that it is properly installed. When you have valuable documents and media files, it's not necessarily a bad idea to get a smaller, commercial-grade fire safe to get in the gun safe. This gives you double protection. Selecting a reliable brand like Cannon or Winchester is a great way to make certain that the safe you acquire lives approximately the guarantee of the manufacturer.

DO investigate the safe's specifications.

Simply because a good is large and heavy doesn't mean it's particularly secure. Heavy-gauge steel is a lot more immune to cutting and drilling than light 12- or 14-gauge steel. Some safes on the market have walls so thin they are often penetrated using a fire ax. We recommend 10-gauge steel at the very least, and 8 gauge is way better. The safe should carry a UL RSC (Underwriters Laboratories "Residential Security Container") or better rating.

DO ask about the safe's safeguards against tampering.

A quality safe will feature extra armor or devices to defeat drilling. Low-grade safes might be opened in some minutes with simple, battery-powered hand tools. All safes should have relockers to help you make sure the safe remains locked in the case of a burglary. Relockers are hardened pins which can be triggered throughout an attack, and cannot be retracted without hours of drilling. The quantity of relockers over a safe ranges from 2-10 according to the safe's size and burglary grade.

DON'T store powder with your safe.

A tightly-sealed metal box using a large volume of powder inside is really a bomb. Store powder inside a separate, lightly-constructed cabinet or wood box. What is important for powder is to ensure that it stays dry and clear of moisture and lightweight.

DON'T store large quantities of primers within your safe.

If one primer goes off it could detonate others, causing a chain reaction. For those who have many a large number of primers, don't store them all-in-one corner of your reloading area.

DON'T leave the wooden pallet on your own safe and count on the safe's mass alone to discourage thieves.

A 10-year-old kid having a rented pallet jack can move a 1000-pound safe with ease in the event the pallet is attached along with the safe is not really bolted down.

DON'T place your safe in plain view, including the front of your garage, or corner of the family room.

This is merely an invitation to theft. And become discrete once you load and unload firearms - so that you don't advertise for the whole neighborhood you have a huge gun collection or valuables needing worth extra security.

DON'T leave power tools or cutting torches near your safe.
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